Tricky Woo

Tricky Woo presented by Shred ReadyShred Ready Logo


Descriptions- A Splitwheel into Wingover combination move.

Feature requirements- You will need a retentative hole or wave hole to where you can pass vertically without hitting bottom or a feature where you can do the move on the backwash while being pulled back in.

This move will be described as if you were throwing a right, left, right Tricky Woo.

Note:  Remember to start this move in the stickiest part of the feature.  You can practice this move in flatwater which is a great way to learn to be on edge. If a hole is easier to throw right cartwheels, it should be easier to throw a right, left, right Tricky Woo. Most holes are not perpendicular to the river.  Make sure to read the water to figure the angle of the hole, thus making the move easier and more retentative.

 

Steps

Step 1- SETTING UP

First you have to get stable in the pile.  This will enable the move to be smoother and easier.  You should be somewhat stationary in the pile with slight forward but no backwards momentum.  This will give you an easy set-up.  Next when getting the first part of the cartwheel underway remember to be leaning forward.

 

Step 2- INITIATION 

Your initiation angle is important.  If you do not do this right the boat will not come vertical up under you.  The initiation angle should be between 12 and 2:30. Remember to lean forward to get the boat to come up under you.

 

Step 3- EDGE

As soon as you start to bury the bow your edge is important.  If you are not on edge the boat will not come vertical and it will just spin up under you.  You typically want the boat to come all the way up under you without going forward or back in the feature. You need to use more body than paddle. Most of the Splitwheel comes from your midsection and pushing the paddle towards the bow in a backsweep.

 

Note: Most paddlers when putting their boat on edge to go vertical typically lean on their paddle. This causes the paddle and body to sink into the green water, in effect making a lot of underwater/downstream drag.  Also adding to it, leaning on the paddle is a total loss of balance and will take away from you midsection.

Step 4- REFERNCE POINT 

When doing a Splitwheel many times you can pick a reference point out somewhere on land or in the hole.  This enables you to really understand where to initiate at and makes it retentative.  Some paddlers say make a reference point on land, but I beg to differ.  In my experience you should never take your eyes off the hole.  Your reference point in the hole should be where you try and initiate the bow and the stern for both ends.

Step 5- HEAD POSITION

Your head should stay centered over the body.  When the boat starts to come right you have to lead with your eyes.  Always keep eye contact on the hole.

EX: When doing a right, left split.  You will have to lead with your left eye so that you can see your reference point. This will also help the boat to finish because the boat will follow the eyes.


Step 6- PADDLE PLACEMENT

The paddle should be placed on your right hip while on edge.  You should be using the back of the blade.  By pushing on the paddle and contracting on the abs you push the boat and paddle together like a big pair of scissors. Making it to where you do not wash out of the hole.  If you push too much you will wash out from going to deep in the hole.  When the boat gets up under you, above 45 degrees, you have to switch from the back of the blade to the powerface of the blade. In the middle of the switch many times you will have to combine with a slight backstroke to pull you back into the hole.  There will be a slight pause in between strokes to enable your edge change.  You will then pull the boat back up under you on the stern with the powerface of the blade.

Note:  If you throw a right/ left split, many times the best vertical Splitwheels are where you initiate the bow and the stern at the same spot in the trough of the feature.

 

Step 7- LEFT STERN END

From the left stern end of the Splitwheel you will want to make sure to pull the boat deep under you so be on your hard right edge.  As you pull the boat vertical, slightly lean back the make sure the stern of the boat is under you and slicing through the greenwater.

 

Note:  The less vertical your stern end is, the harder it is to make the full 180 direction change into the wingover because of the drag of the boat underwater. This entire move is done with only one blade. 

Step 8- EXPOSING THE STERN

As you start to pivot you have to expose the stern of the boat to the downstream current.  This means to try and get the back of the boat to grab as much green water as possible.  This will help the move to complete by making easier to do three things

A) Look over your shoulder to see where in the hole you are

B) Give you more time to bring the paddle to the right position

C) Make you more consistent on staying retentative

 

Step 9- PADDLE PLACEMENT

You paddle should about a foot away from the boat beside your right hip.  Make sure you have the powerface of the paddle facing the side of the boat.  From here you will do a bow draw on the right side to pull the boat under you and get the boat spinning in the 180 direction change. 

 

Note:  Sculling as the boat pivots in a hole with descent recirculation with make the boat hang in vertical limbo for a couple of moments but will also tend to drag you out of the hole.

Step 10- YOUR EYES/ HEAD

As the boat comes vertical you have to start looking over your right shoulder.  If you do not lead with your right eye then the bow of the boat will not follow.  This causes you to catch too much green water and pushes you out of the back of the hole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 11- PADDLE FLIP

This step is the most technical.  As the boat starts the pivot back to the right, you have to flip the paddle over so the back face of the right blade is pushing down and away from you against the downstream current.  The stroke will still be at your right hip even though the paddle has switched around 180 degrees also. Odds are you will be underwater, so when the stroke begins stay committed and push hard. 

 

Note:  If you do not stay committed you will just fall over backwards onto the back of your head or catch too much green water and wash out of the back of the hole.

 Step 12- THE DRIVE

On this step you are leaning forward and pushing on the back face of the right blade.  You will have to remember to push the bow of the boat to the paddle like a big pair of scissors.  If you lean on the paddle you will wash out of the hole. As the boat cuts up under you into a right sequence just go with it.  Push hard and make sure to commit to the stroke.

 

Step 13- RECOVERY

After you have completed the entire move you will come up on the end of a right cartwheel.  Make sure to be on a left blade back sweep to stay retentative and not wash out of the back of the hole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

~ by Jeremy Adkins on November 21, 2008.

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